This routemill is designed around the concept of a DIY router that can be made from scratch with the minimum of tools. Tools required are ones that any good shop will have or can be acquired for minimal cost. With a side benefit that, if you do not already have the tools then by the time you finish this CNC machine you will also have some nice tools to compliment your new router. The required tools include a small angle grinder with cut off wheels, an electric drillmall drill press, a small flux core welder, and various hand tool (speed square, tape measure, hammer, center punch, files, screw drive, hex keys, drill bits, taps, and a tap wrench). The main body of the router frame is made from locally sourced square steel tubing that is cut and welded together. The linear axes are made up HGH15 blocks with rails mounted to 20x80mm t-slot aluminum extrusio. The extrusio are mounted to the steel frame with a combination of clamp and jack screws that allow the extrusio to be tweaked in relation to each other. Thus, the axes can be squared to each other. The X and Y axes are driven with spring loaded (for anti-backlash purposes) rack and pinion drives using NEMA 34/23 stepper moto. The Z axis is driven by a NEMA 23 stepper motor via a TR8 lead screw and a Delrin anti-backlash nut. The working deck is fabricated from dimeional lumber that is screwed down to the steel frame tubes and then machined level to accept a replaceable waste board. The design of the waste board can be anything from a simple plain particle board sheet to the more complicated veion presented here. All three axes use dual cable chai to allow the various signal lines to be run isolated from the stepper and spindle power leads. This isolation is for noise reduction, but it also happe to look cool. The design can easily be extended in the Y direction to any arbitrary length because the aluminum extrusio, linear rails, and racks can be butted together to achieve the required length in very reliable and accurate ways. A quick YouTube search can show how. A TinyBee CNC board running FluidNC is recommended to control the machine. A knee operated paddle switch in conjunction with a DPST 25A relay is used to provide a real hardware E-Stop switch (as opposed to a digital input suggestion). There is plenty of room under the machine to mount all the electronics. 3D printed parts are used in a few places to provide switch enclosures, tube end caps and wire routing cove.